If you’ve tried Man Behind The Curtain you know roughly what you’re in for, but for those new to this type of dining be prepared for various twists and modern classics. Whether you love or hate what comes next, you’ll definitely have an opinion.



It’s random, in a good way!

After a welcome cocktail which highlighted Mr Nobody’s sake range we were guided through to the underground dining room by the effervescently friendly and knowledgeable staff. The décor was well chosen: simple and comfortable, and before long we were settled in and eagerly waiting for what came next.

The five course taster menu is competitively priced with others in the city, and quite random – in a good way. Our secretive explained how this is the kind of food he likes to make for himself, where you take a classic dish and mix it up a bit. First up was the Cheeseburger Spring Roll, a dish we’d been excited for as soon as we’d heard about it… served in a takeaway box, it was impossible to get a good photo. “But how was the flavour?” we hear you cry. Well, it was almost exactly what it said on the tin, so if you love cheeseburgers you’ll be in heaven, but if you were looking for something more spring roll-ish, you might be less keen.



Fine dining toasties

With a blend of 90’s pop, hip hop and rap playing in the background, we waited with bated breath for our next courses. We didn’t have long to wait, the whole evening was really well paced, it never felt rushed, but you never went hungry. Next, we were treated to something which is best described as a fine dining toastie, stuffed with chicken, mozzarella and kaffir lime. The flavours were balanced and the portions were delicate, if you’re a ravenously hungry person it might feel a bit small. But any more could spoil it, there’s just enough to leave you wanting one more bite.



Mid way through the evening we received our favourite savoury course – salt and pepper squid! It’s hard to cook squid perfectly, but XO’s came pretty close, it was beautifully tender, and again, there was just enough to make you want another taste. If we tell you about the other courses it’ll spoil the mystery, so the last thing we’re going to tell you about is possibly always the most important – dessert!


The showstopper

This last course was definitely worth waiting for, The Hangover Cone, a blend of sweet and savoury that shouldn’t work but really does. Vanilla ice cream melded with brownies, raspberries and that ridiculously good twist… ready salted crisps! Although it sounds like the worst idea you’ve ever heard, it’s quite possibly the best – like salted caramel on steroids. Now here, we really did want more, sharing just felt wrong, and there may or may not have been arguments about who got the last bite… that should tell you everything you need to know.



So go, try it, and see if you agree with us, or disagree entirely. Like we said, you’ll definitely have an opinion, and with conceptual fine dining like this, that’s half the point. Let us know what you think after a visit…

By Parker, Restaurants of Leeds Share this story