And no, there’s no need to order X without the Y and Z – Harvey Nichols now has an exclusively vegan menu, so those who don’t eat (or don’t fancy) animal byproducts can enjoy a luxurious meal without compromise.

To be fair, Leeds isn’t short on vegan-friendly options. There are plenty of great little cafes and street food-style venues that offer vegan dishes.

But what if you want to dress up and head out for a nice meal, without having to ask the waiter to list the ingredients in every item on the menu?

Harvey Nichols has it covered. The recently launched vegan menu offers everything you’d expect from a gourmet experience: interesting flavours, creative pairings, and unexpected twists.

It’s evident that thought has put into every dish, and not in the “how can we turn bird food into something edible” sort of way – instead, it’s all about devising delicious combinations, which happen to be vegan.

The atmosphere

The Fourth Floor Café in Harvey Nichols has a feeling of old-world-big-city class. The lights are low, the windows are big, and it gives off a slightly posh vibe without being pretentious – the sort of place that feels a bit special, without being too formal.

The service was attentive, warm, and friendly, and my companion and I were quickly supplied with drinks, along with bread and olive oil to start. My hunk of brown bread was light and fluffy, scattered with pumpkin seeds that offered a satisfying crunch.

I was driving, and so opted for a sparkling water, while my companion took her pick from the surprisingly long and diverse vegan wine menu. She chose the sparkling Garg ‘n’ go, La Biancara, which was crisp, refreshing, and fairly priced at £6.50 a glass.

To start

Luckily, my co-diner was game for sharing dishes, and so I was able to try at least a bite of everything on the menu.

The heartier of the starters: sautéed wild mushrooms were served on toasted sourdough, with pine nuts and parsley. A generous layer of mushrooms mimicked a meaty texture but had a unique, zesty tang, which was offset by the slightly smoky taste of the bread.

The salad-like option: whipped tofu, beetroot, apple, and celery, coated in a soya and ginger dressing.

Both of us were intrigued by ‘whipped tofu’, which turned out to be creamy and indulgent, a perfect contrast to the crunchy beets. The colourful vegetables had an exotic appeal, and the refreshing mix worked as a light yet invigorating starter.

The mains

As you’d expect from a place like Harvey Nichols, presentation was clearly an important factor for each dish. Everything looked both appetising and fun, with plenty of colour that reflected the menu’s natural theme.

The Fennel tart pastry was so crumbly and buttery that I had to remind myself it was dairy-free. Crispy kale provided a sudden, smoky crunch, while the balsamic onions and sesame-orange dressing added a touch of sweetness.

It was an incredibly clever dish, as each of the components tasted great individually and came together in a perfectly devised explosion of flavour when combined into one bite.

In a different but equally delicious way, the onion and thyme fritters were like comfort food for the rich and famous. Crispy, warm, but not at all greasy… I wish you could buy them by the bucketful.

They were served on a bed of cauliflower that was cooked to perfection, soft and buttery with just the right amount of charring for a rustic crunch. Jerusalem artichokes were a creative addition that provided the meaty texture, making the dish feel both completely unique and somehow familiar.

Both mains captured the creative essence of the Harvey Nichols approach to vegan food, where all the little things come together in a delightful result.

Everyday foods are paired with unexpected ingredients, balanced and contrasted in a whirl of flavours, to create a dish that has yummy components that taste superb all together.

The dessert 

The chocolate cake had been on my mind since I first read the menu, and it turns out it was well worth the wait.

Moist, fudgy, and unapologetically indulgent, it was the exact sort of vegan dish that sparks the cliché “I can’t believe it’s vegan!”. And the fresh berries drizzled with maple syrup were a welcome bonus that appealed to my Canadian palate.

To be honest, I wasn’t as good at sharing my dessert as I had been with the rest of the meal, which turned out to be fine as my friend enjoyed the poach rhubarb (almost) as much as I enjoyed the cake.

She did spare me a bite of the toasted oats, which were sticky-sweet, warming, and the exact sort of thing I imagine people like Beyoncé eat at Sunday brunch.

The verdict

From start to finish, the vegan experience at Harvey Nichols is a classy and delicious treat that doesn’t ever feel like you’re missing out or compromising on anything. While the portion sizes weren’t huge, each dish was satisfying and rich, providing excellent value at £20 for three courses.

As with any worthwhile menu, flavour and quality has been put first. The result is a range of creative concoctions that anyone, regardless of their dietary preferences, will find something to delight in.

 

 

 

By Mady, Restaurants of Leeds Share this story